Frequently Asked Questions

If you are just starting out and have an acre or less of garden space, one of our garden kits will work perfectly for you.

Check out our YouTube Videos, Facebook and Instagram pages!  

It takes about 1.50 hours per day to equal 1” of water per week with the standard flow drip tape. We recommend that you water you garden every day for the same amount of time to keep your plants happy and never let them dry out and cause plant stress.

Yes, you can send us a drawing to help design your system. Email, Fax or by mail.

See our Contact Us Page (see Link above)

We need to know distances, number of rows, as well as any elevation changes that may exist.

If you know your gallons per minute that will be helpful. Be sure to let us know what the water source is and if you plan any expansion.

The best way is to go to the spigot/hydrant you will be watering from with a 5-gallon bucket and a stopwatch. Turn the spigot all the way on and see how long it takes to fill the bucket.

The GPM formula is 60 divided by the number of seconds it takes to fill a one-gallon container.

Examples: If it takes 20 seconds to fill the 5-gallon bucket you have 15 gallons per minute.
( 20 seconds divided by 5 gallons = 4 seconds per gallon. 60/4=15 gallons per minute)

If it takes 30 seconds to fill the 5-gallon bucket you have 10 gallons per minute.
( 30 seconds divided by 5 gallons = 6 seconds per gallon. 60/6=10 gallons per minute)

Emitters are irrigation devices that provide a regulated amount of water over a given time period to a certain plant or location.   They can be inline, meaning they are built into the tubing.  Or emitters can be punched into the tubing at the desired spacing.

Non-PC emitters do not regulate the flow of water regardless of the pressure. Therefore, the higher the pressure, the more they will emit. They are suited for flat terrain and smaller areas such as nursery plots or greenhouses.

Different emitters are designed for different applications and require different pressures. Most operate within a certain pressure range, but consult the manufacturer’s recommendations for the specific emitter you choose.

Dirt, sand, algae, etc. that get into your lines can clog the small channels in a drip emitter quickly. Most of these contaminants come from your water source. No matter how clean your water looks, there will always be a certain amount of sediment or trash. Always be sure to install a filter on your system to ensure nothing gets clogged and reduce headaches down the road. Additionally, if you are injecting fertilizer through your drip system, be sure to run clean water through your lines after each application to help flush any minerals or gunk that could solidify over time and clog your emitters.

This depends on the size of the line and the flow of the sprinkler. Let’s say you have 3/4″ line (which can handle 7GPM) and you are using 2GPH emitters. Start by converting 7GPM to GPH. Since there are 60 minutes in an hour, 7GPM = 420GPH. If each emitter puts out 2GPH, then 420GPH / 2GPH = 210 emitters per line.

A pressure compensating emitter is specially constructed to make sure it emits the exact same amount of water no matter the pressure. This is especially helpful on a hillside where the pressure will be higher at the bottom, or on a very long line of emitters where the pressure will be noticeable higher at one end than the other.

No. Only some are designed to be inverted.  These are usually attached to a mainline along the top of a greenhouse or nursery situation.

For greenhouses, the most popular inverted models are the VibroNet and SpinNet sprinklers by Netafim.  For larger areas, indoor or outside, the Mini Wobblers by Senninger are very popular. 

Be sure and study the Brochures we link to each product for the specifications on how high the sprinklers should be hung away from the crop.

Fertilizer injectors are used to infuse the water going to your field with a small amount of fertilizer that can be readily absorbed by the plant’s root system. Using this method, you can spoon feed your plants over the course of the season with whatever fertilizer they need at various stages in the plant life. Not only are Fertilizer Injectors a more efficient way to fertilize, but you will get better results compared to granular fertilizer applications.

Yes, you should run the system with clean water long enough to allow all fertilizer to leave all the lines.

When injecting anything sticky such as Fish Fertilizer, you will want to run clean water completely through the Injector to clean out any residue.

EZ-flo injectors work very well with our kits. They have standard garden hose connectors included.

The drip tape is available in 8, 10 and 15 mil thicknesses. 8 mil is typically used once and thrown away. 10 mil is better for rocky soil or over wintering a crop such as strawberries. 15 mil tape is commonly used by those that want to get the tape up and use it multiple years or on crops that aren’t replace each year.

The standard drip tape is a 12” spacing, which works well for most vegetable gardens. If you have very high plant densities such as carrots, corns or flowers, choose an 8” spacing.

Standard flow rate is 4.5 gallons per minute per 1000’ linear foot. If you have a very low water supply in gallons per minute you can order tape that is only 2.2 gallons per minute per 1000’. We have many flow rates available to meet your needs.

The Flow of your drip tape is the 3rd set of numbers in the Model #. This number is stated in GPM per every 100′ of tape that you run.

EXAMPLE: EA5081245-7500 This standard tape puts out .45 gpm for every 100 feet that you run. OR 4.5 gpm for every 1,000′ of tape that you run.

TRY IT #1: — I have 12 gpm of water coming out of your garden hose at the field/plot. Therefore, I can run 2,666 feet of drip tape at one time. (MATH: 12 divided by .45= 26.666 x 100 feet = 2,666 feet)

TRY IT #2: — I have 14 gpm of water “ ” ” … Therefore, I can run 3,111 feet of drip tape at one time.

Row lengths up to 500’ are typically no problem for most drip tapes.

You can bury the tape without any problems. You just need to be sure that the side with the openings faces up. You will have less trouble with your tape if it’s buried since rodents like to chew on the tape to get water.

Generally, you put one line of tape per row of crop. Some rows that are 30” or wider may require two lines of tape depending on plant density.

8-mil drip tape is used once and discarded. 10-mil tape is generally used for rocky soil or overwintering crops. 15-mil tape is usually good for 3-5 years as long as the filter and regulator are working properly.

Standard drip tape has a maximum pressure of 15 psi. We usually recommend a 10 or 12 PSI Pressure Regulator. Sprinklers can take much more!

Drip tape requires 6 psi to work correctly, but can only withstand pressures up to 12 psi. Many wells and water sources produce more than 12 psi, which is why a Pressure Regulator is recommended.

Pressure Regulators keep the pressure steady; most are not adjustable. If you have a 12 psi Regulator, your system’s pressure will not go over 12 psi.

Standard flow rate is 4.5 gallons per minute per 1000’ linear foot. If you have a very low water supply in gallons per minute you can order tape that is only 2.2 gallons per minute per 1000’. We have many flow rates available to meet your needs.

The Flow of your drip tape is the 3rd set of numbers in the Model #. This number is stated in GPM per every 100′ of tape that you run.

EXAMPLE: EA5081245-7500 This standard tape puts out .45 gpm for every 100 feet that you run. OR 4.5 gpm for every 1,000′ of tape that you run.

TRY IT #1: — I have 12 gpm of water coming out of your garden hose at the field/plot. Therefore, I can run 2,666 feet of drip tape at one time. (MATH: 12 divided by .45= 26.666 x 100 feet = 2,666 feet)

TRY IT #2: — I have 14 gpm of water “ ” ” … Therefore, I can run 3,111 feet of drip tape at one time.

Generally speaking, the pressure regulator should be placed anywhere upstream of your drip tape or emitters. If your water source or spigot is only a short distance from your field (100-200 feet and flat terrain) then you are fine to install the regulator at the spigot. If the water has to travel a long way, or you are pumping up or down a hill to get to your field, it is best to put the regulator as close to the field as possible to keep the water pressure from dropping before reaching your drip tape.

Most wells run at around 40-60PSI and most drip tapes are designed to be run at 10 or 12 PSI. Therefore, unless you are running a gravity fed system, or using a very low-pressure pump, you will have to have a pressure regulator on your system.

Yes! All pressure regulators can only be installed one way to function properly. Look for the arrow printed on the side of your regulator indicating the direction water should flow before installing.

Poly tubing is a flexible plastic pipe made from polyethylene. It can be used as a mainline to bring water to your field, a submain to connect your drip tape to, or it can even have emitters installed in it to serve as a more permanent irrigation line. Our poly tubing is LDPE (Low Density Polyethylene) as opposed to the HDPE (High Density) you will find at plumbing and hardware stores. This makes for a more flexible line and is easier to work with for drip irrigation. It also works with all the fittings for drip tape. HDPE has a much thicker wall to handle more pressure, but will not work with our power-loc or drip tape fittings.

If you are using LDPE Poly that is 1″ diameter or smaller, we recommend using Power-Loc™ fittings.  (See our Irrigation -> Fittings Category). For larger pipe, use standard barbed PVC fittings with hose clamps.

Kinks in poly tubing can happen in shipment, or when moving the tubing around the farm. Kinks will not hurt or weaken the tubing and will work themselves out when the tube is pressurized. If you need to make a tight turn that causes your pipe to kink, be sure to use an elbow to avoid severely constricting the flow.

Berry Hill Irrigation carries only high-quality embossed film by Ginegar.  Ginegar’s mulch films are advanced multi-layer mulch films that are manufactured using cast extrusion. 

Plastic mulch is used on raised beds to prevent weeds in your fields. The drip tape lays under the plastic mulch film.

The cast production method involves embossing while the material is hot, thereby changing the surface of the sheeting and endowing it with greater flexibility, softness and strength. This technique allows better adherence of the sheeting to the ground surface, and is particularly suitable for crops grown on raised beds.

Ginegar’s manufacturing process of the plastic mulch films uses a five-layer coextrusion technology. This enables the process of raw materials that guarantee the highest level of mechanical strength and flexibility, and compatibility with all mechanical testing standards.

Black is the most common. White on black plastic may be used with either side facing upward, depending on the specific need.

White mulch reflects solar radiation and is used where soil cooling is desired, such as establishing fall crops or 2nd crops planted during the heat of summer.

Research has shown that white or aluminum reflective mulch also repels aphids, which spread some virus diseases in vine crops such as squash.

• Cleaner produce
• Earlier harvest
• Reduced weed infestation.
• More efficient use of water.
• Reduced fertilizer leaching
• Possibility of re-use, double cropping (ex, strawberries, then pumpkins)
• Larger yields
• Higher economic returns

Yes! Without proper filtration, your drip system will begin to clog over time. If you have Well or City Water, Disc and Screen Filters are sufficient. We offer a “Filter and Pressure Regulator Assembly” to complete your drip system. These connect to a standard garden hose.

Watering from a Pond, River or Stream? Media filters utilize a bed of sand to filter out suspended solids, organic matter, and microorganisms from the water. As water passes through the media bed, particles are trapped and retained so clean water exits through the outlet.

Warranties on emitters, micro sprinklers and other such parts are not valid if the proper filtration is not used.

Drip systems generally are best used with a 150-mesh filter. If you are using a Dosatron fertilizer injector, a 200-mesh filter is required. If you are pumping out of a pond or creek, a sand media filter is recommended.

Frequency depends on how dirty your water is. If your water is fairly clean, start by checking once a week. If it is dirty, you may need to clean your filter every few days.

Generally speaking, the filter can be installed anywhere upstream of your emitters or drip tape. Usually, they are installed at your spigot or pump for convenience sake but can be installed close to the field if you prefer.

You can run liquid or water-soluble fertilizer through the drip tape we recommend that you flush the system after running fertilizer until fresh water is all the way through the system.

Most timers have a screen on the inlet connection that is usually the leading cause of this.

It depends on the elevation change within the row. Please contact us to discuss what will work best in your situation.

YES! Your Tank must be at a minimum of 4 Feet ABOVE the CROP. (Measuring from the bottom of the tank.) How many feet can you water this way? That depends on the size of your tank, length of your rows, flow of your Drip Tape… REFER TO #4

We recommend a Low Flow Drip Tape (12″ 3.4 for example)

(This can be requested in your Garden Kit as well.)

VA Farm Bureau taped a great video about how to do this well:

Most systems are pretty maintenance free. All of the main & submain lines (oval hose, lay flat, blue-stripe) can be driven across as long as you are careful not to hit any connections and fittings that you may have installed inline. You will need to keep any filters, pumps, fertilizer injectors and timers from freezing by storing them in a warm place or to thoroughly drain all water from them.

FREEZING TEMPS: TAKE YOUR TIMERS, FILTERS & FERTILIZER INJECTORS INDOORS IN THE WINTER TIME! SAND FILTERS? PUMPS? You need to winterize these items!

Colorful, Detailed Instructions come with each of our Kits, Pieces of Equipment, Injector Systems, Filters, etc. If you are missing these, please call or email us immediately.

Generally speaking, if your system is running at 15 PSI or higher, it is a good idea to use hose clamps. If you are using a very low pressure or gravity fed system, there is usually no need for hose clamps.

Hose thread will always be 3/4″ diameter and has a coarser thread than pipe thread does. Pipe thread is a noticeably finer thread than hose thread and can range in diameter from 1/4″ – 4″ and larger. Do not attempt to join hose thread to 3/4″ pipe thread because the connection will always leak and you will strip the threads on your fittings.